Thursday, November 8, 2007

Kevin Jorgeson's new highball, Footprints

Kevin climbed Footprints on Saturday Nov 3rd. There is a report about this on Climbing magazine's website:

Kevin has, I think, in a communication with me, suggested that Footprints while having very serious fall potential for some sketchy moves high on the slab is not quite as serious an undertaking as some of his other Bishop highballs.

Using an E-for-Extreme rating system along the lines of the British E-system for seriously highball climbing/solos he has suggested E6 for this one. The crux is relatively low to the ground, though hard, and the upper crux though insecure and terrifying is not super-hard.

My guess is that Bishop's Biggest tick list looks something like this. I have given most of the E-ratings according to what I know of the line, either from TR or from ascent of whole or part. I apply the E-grade basically according to how impressive is an ascent of the line OVERALL. This is about inverse to the likelihood of anyone repeating the line (all other things being equal) or the number of repeats it gets taking into account the relative quality, beauty, reputation, and accessibility of the line:

The Beautiful and Damned (Bardinis) -- E9 v12/13 See BishopBouldering.Info
Evilution Direct (Grandpa Peabody) -- E8 v11
Evilution Original (Grandpa Peabody) -- E7/8 v12
Flight of the Bumblebee (Secrets Area) -- E7+? v9 See BishopBouldering.Info Repeated by Kevin Daniels with two falls from crux!
This Side of Paradise (Bardinis) -- E7 v10 E-rating suggested by Lisa Rands
Footprints (Grandpa Peabody) -- E6 v9 Kevin has suggested this rating, but it waits for confirmation. He's pretty harsh with his ratings in general.
The Ninth (Pollen Grains) -- E6 v7. Rating suggested by me and somewhat confirmed by others.
The Big Easy (Grandpa Peabody) -- E5 v7 See BishopBouldering.Info
Mesothelioma (Pollen Grains) -- E4/5 v7

I should try to get a fuller list going of some of the easier but superhighball lines.

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