Sunday, March 9, 2008

Painful v9/10 project climbed on the Fly Boy Boulder

Listed as a project in the guidebook, page 195, #17, is this line, which starts as for Haroun and the Sea of Stories, but climbs rightward and out the roof, per Bulging Grain (v7) and then right again along the lip of the boulder to finish on a blunt rib: a long and sustained problem in fact. It would be an amazing counterpart to Haroun if only it were more skin-friendly, but sadly it's extremely rough. It's been something I have thought of doing, and maybe someone has even done it before (?), but it was definitely climbed by Gabriele Moroni yesterday. He suggested it was about v9, though his compatriot friend said, "Maybe ... but it's harder than Haroun ..." so perhaps it's more like a v10, or so: Haroun is not as hard as originally thought and is definitely not the v12 given in the guide, but v9? That's going a bit too far. The once-project gets a lot of sun, so if you have rhino skin and can wait until evening to give it a go, let me know what you think.

5 comments:

Adam Lincoln said...

does this have a name? probably have a play on this tonight....

Wills Young said...

Didn't get a name... Will ask Gabry if he has one.

Michele said...

I was meaning to say: looking gabri climbing it, just looked harder than the higher part of Haroun, given v9 in the guide. But I didn't even try it, so...
Hope to come again in Bishop!!!

Wills Young said...

Hey Michele! Okay, that makes sense. Hope to see you again in Bishop!

Wills Young said...

Fakir School is the name Gabri has suggested, "for the painful nature of the problem."