Friday, January 16, 2009

Jeff Sillcox, The Buttermilker

Oh yeah ... and Jeff finally did The Buttermilker (v13), getting a now rare ascent of this line. Recently most people have been climbing a shorter version of this problem by starting on underclings, rather than the original problem, which involves a sit-down start at the lower left--it could make a grade of difference ... The higher start seems to be winning out for popularity, but is it right to re-describe a long-standing testpiece with new starting holds? Should the high start be called The Buttermilker, or should that name be used only to describe the problem from its original starting point?

7 comments:

Justin said...

YES JEFF!! Good work doing it proper too. What's with doing it from a stand anyway?

Jason said...

Maybe the newer version should be called the Blundermilker

Anonymous said...

nice jeff!!
alas, the stand is nice.. what can you do?
it is a bit like "jade stand up start", though, now that you mention it.. if you stand it, it ain't much to sit it!

Noah as usual said...

Problems start where the First ascentionist started, I was under the impression that you could add moves but not take them away. It needs to be done from the start to be the Buttermilker. Great job, Jeff! That being said, I'd like to do the stand! lol. noah

charlie said...

Finally.

Anonymous said...

Maybe you should call it Uttermilker if you start it standing.

Anonymous said...

I agree with Noah about the original start. If you do it from the stand, it should have a different name since people regularly down grade. This will make it more clear that the problem they did was the right one.