Shawn Diamond has reported a new line on the Grandma Peabody via a comment on the 8a.nu website. The line is a link of Direction into Magnetic North, the latter being a sweet addition that begins at the jug finish of Center Direct and moves up, rightward at first, across the wall on perfect patina. Shawn says, this "is absolutely the most proud line on the boulder--climbing straight up the middle of the Grandma face from sit to top--following really difficult climbing the whole way."
Shawn has suggested v14 for the line and named it Direct North. Though someone has (in a fit of optimism) dabbed some chalk on the blank looking overhang just right of Magnetic North, this particular line, reported by Shawn, is likely the hardest one that will go any time soon (other than perhaps adding a traverse into it from right or left...!).
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Direct North (v14??) by Shawn Diamond
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9 comments:
did Shawn actually do the FA of direction?
If the next line on this boulder isn't "Ollie North" I am going to scream.
pretty sure the next line will be Peter North, since this boulder sees so much action...
hahaha best climbing related blog comment ive seen in a long while.
Ryan, Yes Shawn did the FA of Direction--in 2005, I think!
Any photos, or video of the send?...that would be cool to see...
Are we sure Shawn actually did this climb? My senses are telling me probably not.
We are sure that he has actually did this.
Sheron
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How are you so sure? I'd like to see some video. The time in which he said he did this climb it was about 90 degrees in bishop. I also saw shawn try to climb center direct (V10) into magnetic north (V8) without success about a month or so prior to his supposed sent of direct north. Even though shawn didn't do the climb he put the link-up (center direct/magnetic north) on his 8a.nu scorecard the next day. If you can't do a v10 into a v8 with a really good jug rest in between, then how do you expect people to believe you can do a V13 into a V8 without a rest on horrible crimps in 90 degree weather?. This isn't the first questionable accent from shawn either.
Charlie
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