Monday, October 19, 2009

Luminance (v10?) Ground-Up by Dan Beall

As hoped, I have more info on this remarkable ascent of the superhighball Luminance by Dan Beall. Dan, who is a Junior at the University of California San Diego, had gone out to the Secrets area to try The Swarm. He moved over to look at Luminance, which his friend Tim Wilkens was playing around on (figuring out the moves, but finding the temps less than perfect). They had a couple of "mondos," a Mad Rock pad and a MOON Saturn pad but no rope, so started working the line ground up!

Even the start of the climb is a bit frightening: "I was really nervous going into it," says Dan.

But with no particular expectations, Dan gave it a go. After several forays across the scary lower moves, he soon found himself looking at the meat of the climb--a huge pull from one good edge to another with the terrifying drop zone into a ravine enough to make him second guess the outcome. However, after sitting down for a while, "until I stopped shaking," he says, Dan pulled on once more and this time committed to the throw.

"Even though you feel like you're going to die, I think that the climb is actually fairly safe with just a few pads because of how positive the holds are and how relatively controlled the falls should be. The only place where you could get really hurt I think is the move to the lip, but if you can get there, you really shouldn't fall, it's probably the easiest move on the climb."

I think basically what he's saying is that the holds are pretty positive at the big move, so if you have a positive attitude, and a lot of power, you know if you are going to stick it. A fall could certainly be very serious, though ...

Let's see if others will step up: it is unquestionably one of Bishop's most incredible pieces of rock, and Dan's ascent one of the most impressive achievements so far! Wow, the season has barely begun...

Dan's friend shot video, so hopefully we'll be able to see that shortly. [Video here]

9 comments:

Mrs. Rice said...

That Dan guy sounds totally amazing. I hope I can be a good as him someday!!

Wills Young said...

Dear Mrs. Rice, Well, if you do climb something worth reporting one day, be sure to let us know, won't you?

Mrs. Rice said...

Well Mr. Young, I have climbed many a worthwhile thing! I suppose I could climb you, then we would both have something to report!
While I admire your hubris in defense of Mr. Beall, as his favorite aunt, I greatly appreciate it. However, I was truly stating facts in my previous comment, and feel you should reserve your umbrageous responses for one more worthy.

Anonymous said...

WTF??!

Steven said...

HA!

The Lone Rider, UK said...

Obviously the guy was drinking Nambarrie Tea! Eh Wills

Noah Kaufman, MD said...

Awesome dialog. keep it going! this is entertainment! ahhh cybersmack...

keenan said...

where is luminance? its a beautiful line, and id like to try it once i get a little bit stronger...thanks!

Wills Young said...

Find it on the giant block that sits in the gully between the Windy Wall and the Secrets of the Beehive area. If you follow directions to walk out to the Beehive area given in the guidebook, then you'll see the top of the boulder to your left. This problem faces down the slope as you can see from the pics.