Friday, January 28, 2011

Alex Johnson, The Mandala

Alex Johnson climbed The Mandala (v12) this afternoon. She did the problem from the high-start that is standard now (off pads with right hand in the undercling). This follows pretty much the same sequence used by Chris Sharma on the FA in 2000, beginning with a huge burly span from the undercling and some big pulls on small but positive crimps. Unlike Sharma, she only cut her feet near the top.

Alex Johnson, The Mandala



12 comments:

DB said...

I cried a little when the little chip on the "original" method broke :(

Unai said...

Josune would flashed Mandala sit
;-)
Good effort Alex

Spenser said...

That was inspiring to watch Alex. Hope your fingertip heals so you can continue squeezing juice out of little holds.

Wills Young said...

DB: You mean the right-hand crimp of Dave Graham's (2nd ascent) method?

Dan Beall said...

Yeah, that's what I meant haha. Sharma's goofy double gaston method is also broken long ago of course.
Gotta get out and do work before the thing falls apart completely ;)

tyler Landman said...

why has the stand start suddenly changed?
seems a bit arbitrary..

Wills Young said...

Hey Ty: The original start is lower--either off the ground, or by using as FEW pads as necessary to get the fingers in the first good crimp. Very few people want to do the prow that way any more, as it adds a bit of difficulty. I have to admit I think this is a shame. But there are many gray areas when it comes to climbing.

Anonymous said...

What's the grade of this new start?

Anonymous said...

Wills,
No disrespect, but I must quote a previous post on this very blog:

"It is worth pointing out, for the purists out there, that many people are now starting The Mandala by beginning with their right hand in the undercling and their left on the crimp above (as you would arrive from the above-mentioned version of the sit), though doing so requires a big boost up, and is not the original problem--which begins with the right hand on the crimp as needed when stepping off the ground. It is strange to see 6-foot-plus climbers standing on a huge stack of pads to bring the starting holds down to waist level, rather than showing respect and doing all the moves of the climb (as Sharma did originally) before claiming an ascent."

Do you think it fair, then, to reconsider Alex's ascent to be other than The Mandala?

Anonymous said...

What Alex did is called the 'mandala light' now. It's seen enough ascents to have it's own name. As for grade probably in the v10 or 11 area.

Wills Young said...

Anonymous 2: That doesn't sound like me at all! Ha ha ha! I think you must be the only one that ever read that. All I can say is that strange as it is, this has now become the standard start.

Anonymous 1: Maybe others having done the problem that way can offer a grade. Most importantly it's an AMAZING LINE and everyone should come try it. Phenomenal climbing!

Anonymous said...

I've seen alot of people be able to do it one way but not the other, it may just be similar difficulty. The razorblade beta is obviously harder now though. Beautiful regardless