One of the key holds for many of the climbs on the roof of the Beef Cave in the Ice Caves at the Sad Boulders has broken. The break, which happened at the end of November, was of the good finger-hold that was at the right end of the rail that Beautiful Gecko follows, a hold that also was important for lines Aquatic Hitchhiker, Feels Like a Barnacle, In the Aquarium and Windchill. While all these lines will be harder now, this break will probably have the most impact on Beautiful Gecko. Anyone who has repeated any of these lines since the break please post a comment and let us know what you think! Thanks!
Thursday, December 29, 2011
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9 comments:
Yep, that was a friend of mine. Here's the writeup:
http://blocheadclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/11/broken-holds-shredded-tents-and-other.html
Aquatic Hitchhiker still goes, but its harder to get the heel in the right spot now.
I got on Aquatic Hitchhiker a couple days after the break. Pulling on is slightly more awkward using a smaller crimp left of the original pocket. I don't think it changes the difficulty enough to bump the grade.
i sent aquatic before and after the break and it is more physical now. i also just sent the aquarium and i believe that aquatic is now real v10 and aquarium is real v12. not sure if beautiful will go at the same grade, probably a lot harder now!
Thanks Colin, Will for the feedback on Aquatic and to Alex also for Aquarium. Good to hear.
Hey Wills,
I just did Aquatic and Aquarium and Wheel o' Beef and don't really think that the break changes any of them [though I'd never tried them before.] Aquatic is probably a 9 and Aquarium is probably an 11. Wheel is probably 10. They're all a lot easier than something like Tois Maunets.
alex
Hey Alex,
Thanks. Nice work! As for Tois Maunets, I think most would agree that it's ridiculously hard for the grade, in fact ridiculously hard regardless of the grade! (Some kind of cruel joke perhaps that needs correcting?). Seems like it shouldn't be that bad ...but then it gets you every time! (Well me anyway.)
the starting hold on yayoi has also broken, i think it was on december 28th, i never got to try the problem before hand, but yayoi right felt v7/8, could be harder for me because of hight tho
I climbed Yayoi again and I agree getting off the ground was hard and super-painful on pink fingertips using two tiny sidepulls. Always felt tough for me as very stretched out on the moves. 7/8 sounds right. You really need some tough skin on this line: very thin and sharp at the start.
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