Dan Beall has just done what is likely the 3rd ascent of the newest hard link up on the Grandma Peabody boulder, Direct North (V14). The line climbs Direction (V13) to a marginal rest into the tall and insecure Magnetic North (V8 or 9). Below is a link to a clip of Dan falling off the last move on his last try before the send. A week or so prior to his Direct North ascent Dan dispatched, as Zlu Haller says "best line in the world?'', Evilution Direct (V11). Congrats Dan and keep on crushing
Here's a quick vid of one of the attempts:
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
Dan Beall climbing well in the 'milks
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I also believe he has done the first ascent of an old Matt Birch line on the Grandma Peabody. Starting at go granny go it links through holds on the mystery and directions, and finishes up by doing thunderbird into magnetic north. His indication to me was that it felt significantly harder than direct north. I think at this point he is calling it Misdirection.
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