Wednesday, February 15, 2012

New Variation to He Got Game

There's a good variation people are doing on the Therapy Roof boulder to He Got Game (2nd edition page 116). You climb out the roof starting as for He Got Game, then instead of climbing directly up the wall using a shallow glassy pocket, you trend rightward and around the lip using holds below and right of that pocket. It's basically a right version to He Got Game and seems to check in at around v11 according to reports. Here are some images of Ian Cotter-Brown doing this variation:

Get the decent pocket plus key foot out right

Get ready for the swing
 Hold the swing

The problem needs some pads and spotter due to the rocky landing. Thanks to Ian/Rock Warrior Films for the info and images. Anyone else done this? Any other suggestions for rating/name? Thanks!


Anonymous said...

He Got Fame

DaveH said...

I did it today using basically the same beta as Ian. The only difference is maybe that after I get the toe hook I put the left foot on something in the roof then move the toe hook even further out to a heel on the big jug.

He Got Game Right sounds like a good name. As for the grade, I found it to be easy, 2nd try, so maybe it's V10? I don't know grades though - they're more mysterious than women if you ask me.