Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Dan Mills' Spring Action

Okay, it’s time to catch up on some of the Spring action that took place here in Bishop. I was recently chatting to So Cal's Dan Mills about some first ascents he added to the area. Dan, who was just 15 when he climbed the Mandala, a bit over ten years ago, has evolved into a Bishop connoisseur with few, if any, equals.

Over the past years Dan has systematically worked his way through the hardest boulder problems in the guidebook, not just picking his favorites, but literally climbing everything he could--one-star, two-star, three-star lines, the none-stared and the new, seeking out everything from the obvious to the obscure. Last year he completed all the hard lines at the Sad Boulders (everything v7 or harder) including additions of his own to fill some gaps, and when he read of a couple new lines/link-ups in the Beef Cave, he returned this spring to do those too.

This year he has been focusing more on the Monzonite of the Buttermilks and Druid Stones. Among the lines he has suggested as new this spring are:

Mini Me, v9 (sit start), on Mini Boulder, Buttermilks Main Area, listed as a project in Bishop Bouldering 2nd edition, page 288, route #2.

The Bush, v9 (sit start), on back of the Hueco Wall Boulder, Dale’s Camp, starting with both hands on an obvious pinch. Punch up and right, then leap to the lip. This line is not in the guide, but the Hueco Wall can be found on page 362 of Bishop Bouldering 2nd edition. See video below for a better understanding of this.

Mister Fister, v10+ (sit start), Druid Stones. Start at Hook Line and Sinker. Go right to match hands on a wide edge, then make big hard pull up and right to join the fingery sharp crimps of Red Light District.

Frosted Flakes, v8 (sit start), Cave Boulder, Buttermilks Main Area, makes use of some nice patina by branching out of an established classic. Begin as for Cave Route, (Bishop Bouldering 2nd edition, page 259), then immediately before the crux move of that problem head up and right to meet the Dyno Problem.

General Mills (v9, sit start) is another strained but fun line using some nice patina crimps in the same location, but this time moving left from the Cave Route. Again, climb the Cave route to immediately before the crux. Now move left past a sweet glassy crimp and along the lip leftward before pulling up into a right-facing flake.

While the latter two lines are somewhat forced (and possibly not new) Dan insists they are well worth doing and recording. Along with these lines, Dan made some impressive repeats including a likely second ascent of The Chunnel (v10/11), Alex Honnold’s addition to the Beef Cave at the Ice Caves (Sad Boulders, BB 2nd Ed, p 205). This line begins as for Aquatic Hitchhiker but heads up and out the wall above to a nervy finish on Light at the End of the Tunnel.

Of course it is hard to explain where lines go, so to get an idea of these, check out Dan's video:


Anonymous said...

So I think that the General Mills has been done since I have geeked out on the internet alot looking at bishop boulder problems. Not sure on what the person called it though. Also there is a link up in the ice caves (if anyone cares:) that went under the radar, Subzero (V11) goes from Wind Chill into the Beef Cake exit. This one is probably way harder now due to hold breakage. Ian

Wills Young said...

Hey Ian,
We care! Thanks for the info.

Anonymous said...

When are you going to publish the 3rd Edition because there so many new line

Wills Young said...

I am keeping track of changes needed to update the current guide. It will probably be at least a year before a third edition. You have to remember that there will always be new lines though, and changes from breakage or variations etc. Thankfully, the current guide covers 98 percent of the lines.
It's nice to get updates for the blog to keep everyone informed. I can't always get out as soon as I'd like to repeat, or try the new problems, but I will get there eventually! Have a few on the list right now! Please keep me posted at the email shown at right! Thanks.

how to climb said...

Nice one. thanks for the stuff.

Anonymous said...

He really likes pajama pants.