wills
i see after looking at your site that the problem has been done and is called flight of the bumblebee. it is a kevin jorgonson problem.
cool. i saw this thing and wanted to climb it. it had no chalk on it and i figured it had not been done. i climbed up the west side and dropped a rope down it. i used a grigri to look for holds. i brushed and scoped out the holds. i did not TR the line. i also brushed a series of very dirty but solid holds on the lower angle north face of the boulder to use as a downclimb. i tried the problem 2 days later and fell from the crux at about 25 feet. i had many pads and good spotters. the landing was hard and i split my face open with my left knee. i left a bit shaken up. i also really dug a hole in my right index finger on a sharp crystal, you know the one. i put three stitches in my cheek that night to stop the bleeding.
i returned a week later, november 29th. i had six spotters and pads again. i did the problem on my first go. i had a great time climbing the line and believe it is really high quality. my friend matt video taped the ascent. i tried to climb it a second time and fell from the crux again. the fall was again long and hard but i did no damage.
i feel this is a really high quality problem and could be climbed on sight by a strong bold climber.
the hardest problems i have done are V8 in rating. i have done some FA's that may be harder but are unconfirmed. i am very happy to see the problem is difficult. i was not sure how hard it was. it felt hard. the moves at the crux, 4 in a row to get onto my feet, felt like solid V7 .
i would like to talk with this kevin jorgenson if possible. do you have a contact for him ?
KD
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Flight of The Bumblebee
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6 comments:
Kevin,
That's a really proud effort. I thought that falling from the crux was NOT an option and agree the crux alone felt around v7. Adding the initial lead-in (v5-6?) makes the problem pretty heady to say the least. I'd be impressed if someone did this onsight as the crux is not entirely obvious and the hight of the boulder makes it super-scary! Maybe you should get on some of the other superhighball lines and let me know where you think this one stands ... E7 or E8 I'm guessing -- see my post below.
Kevin,
Regarding how hard it is.... That is all speculation. Kevin Jorgeson was saying v7/8 which maybe is what you think. I thought it was harder when I did it on TR and it was me that suggested v9 and maybe E8 due to the death-like fall possibilities from the crux ... but then again, you've walked away from the crux fall twice! Are you crazy?
Any way you look at it, it has to be one of the most amazing and proudest lines in the Buttermilks. Perhaps your ascent will inspire more to give it a try!
Wills
it was harder than the checkerboard or the fly-boy. it is harder than V7 i would say solid V8. i have done lots of V8 problems and it felt as hard as any i have done. because i thought it was possible a first ascent i was free to climb without my mind limiting me. i alway perform at my personal best when i am doing what i believe is the FA of a climb.
thanks wills
kevin
hey kevin,
shoot me an email at kjorgeson@aol.com.
kevin j.
Glad you made it up this one, it's a super proud line and doubly glad you walked away from another fall off it. Like Matt Said, Kevin, you've got balls that clank.
Matt from ABQ
Proud line indeed. Here is a slideshow of some images I took of Jorgeson doing the FA: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8N5cRcjhZsM
He climbed it to the top once, then climbed up to the crux so I could get wide photos, downclimbed and jumped off.
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