i see after looking at your site that the problem has been done and is called flight of the bumblebee. it is a kevin jorgonson problem.
cool. i saw this thing and wanted to climb it. it had no chalk on it and i figured it had not been done. i climbed up the west side and dropped a rope down it. i used a grigri to look for holds. i brushed and scoped out the holds. i did not TR the line. i also brushed a series of very dirty but solid holds on the lower angle north face of the boulder to use as a downclimb. i tried the problem 2 days later and fell from the crux at about 25 feet. i had many pads and good spotters. the landing was hard and i split my face open with my left knee. i left a bit shaken up. i also really dug a hole in my right index finger on a sharp crystal, you know the one. i put three stitches in my cheek that night to stop the bleeding.
i returned a week later, november 29th. i had six spotters and pads again. i did the problem on my first go. i had a great time climbing the line and believe it is really high quality. my friend matt video taped the ascent. i tried to climb it a second time and fell from the crux again. the fall was again long and hard but i did no damage.
i feel this is a really high quality problem and could be climbed on sight by a strong bold climber.
the hardest problems i have done are V8 in rating. i have done some FA's that may be harder but are unconfirmed. i am very happy to see the problem is difficult. i was not sure how hard it was. it felt hard. the moves at the crux, 4 in a row to get onto my feet, felt like solid V7 .
i would like to talk with this kevin jorgenson if possible. do you have a contact for him ?
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Posted by kevin daniels at 5:51 PM