Kevin Jorgeson has climbed another spectacular line at the Buttermilks that is a likely first ascent. He suggested "The Golden Rule" as a name for this highball/route that took three pieces of gear, assuming, he says carefully, that it is an FA. It is likely 5.12 with what Kevin says is a heady v4 crux over a very bad landing on a beautiful unprotected blunt arete. This leads to some gear in a thin crack which is passed to make a bold topout on the arete.
This very pretty line is found on a massive boulder in the Secrets of the Beehive region, sitting in a ravine between the Secrets area proper and the Windy Wall area. There is an arete on the northwest (downhill) side that was climbed by Chris Sharma, while the west wall itself remains undone as far as I know, along with some other possibilities.
Thanks to ANDY MANN (dropkneeclimbing.blogspot.com) for the image.
Friday, December 7, 2007
Posted by Wills Young at 10:30 PM