Got this from Garrett Gregor:
"I put up a new climb - I think? his weekend to the right of flyboy... same face as fly boy. which starts left hand low and right hand on a slopey crimp instead of crawling up the slab to the jugs. It busts right and has a comitting move over the slab... maybe v7/8ish? Let me know what you think..."
Here's a photo:
Friday, April 18, 2008
New Line on Fly Boy Boulder
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3 comments:
i also did a new line on the Flyboy face; it starts as per Flyboy, but instead of the finishing dyno, you set up, jump, and fly really far onto the pads below! its called "Total Fucking Wank" and it checks in at like V4+
thanks for noting this ascent,
-Joe Morgan
Hey Joe, Thanks for the note! That's a nice one, hey? Yeah, not a first, though, I'm pretty sure. I saw another guy do a variation on that a few years ago: STICK the lip, swing out, hold on for dear life, swing back in and then back-flop from ten feet up. Maybe that's the one you were trying ("TFW" as you call it...). Hope you're leg's okay -- come back and send!
Wills, I saw a story about what you guy's do,I found it very interesting. The falls your wife is taking, more than likely are generating some serious G-force events, the sensation of seeing stars, dizziness, headache. My company makes an oral appliance, much like a sleep guard that sits only on the back teeth, proven in NFL players, boxers, U.S. Bobsledders, even trialthletes to be affective in protecting from microtrauma or concussive events. Also, this orthotic positioning procedure has been proven to open nerve energy to help relax and increase isometric strength. I couldn't help thinking, your wife would benefit from having one to proctect her during falls or at the moment when she needs an extra boost of energy. Please contact me if you would like to know where to get one, I would think it's a no brainer.
Thanks
Mark Picot
mpicot@mahercorlabs.com
www.mahercor.com
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