Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Lessons at Rock Creek (v13?) by Charlie Barrett

Today Charlie Barrett sent his project at Rock Creek, the extremely hard sit start to the beautiful prow on the right side of the talus (across the river and up the hill from the Campground Boulder). The line has stood out as the "last great problem" at Rock Creek for several years, and Charlie put a dozen or more visits into it over the past year. He has named the line Lessons.

 Charlie eying the second move on the project last year

Charlie, who has been working his way through the eastside's hardest boulder problems (including ascents of Spectre, The Mandala Sit Start, Thunderbird inTuolumne, etc.) describes this as probably his hardest ascent to date! Lessons, which is a sit to Compression Session (v9) requires a huge amount of compression and body tension and some dynamic slaps to complete. The crux (the first few moves) requires squeezing between a good arete with the right hand, and some terrible glassy undercling/sidepulls with the left. The link for Charlie depended upon securing the left hand into the upper part of the key left sidepull with the second move--gaining the hold in the perfect position with the thumb on poor but crucial pinch. See the last paragraph of a previous post that also mentions this project.
 
 Charlie on Compression Session (Rock Creek), now completed from the sit start

7 comments:

DB said...

Looks Amazing! Congrats Charlie!
Any chance you could post up some directions to this beauty and thunderbird wills?

sd said...

good job charlie

-sammy d

Anonymous said...

Nice job Charlie, Andrew

summitorplummet said...

Nice!

Tony said...

Hello...
it looks good. i'm happy to see new problems. good job
¨tony

chris schulte said...

awesome!
i'll try to get there soon!!!!!!!!

Wills Young said...

DB: The problem "Compression Session" is listed in the new guide. Easy-ish to find across the river from the Campground Boulder and up the talus slightly right and next to large fir tree. Hit me up by email if you need directions to Thunderbird. I'll see about listing some directions to areas outside the guide somewhere ... maybe a possibility.