Sunday, November 7, 2010

Karma, v6/7 by Matt Arnold

Matt Arnold told me about this line at the Happy Boulders a while ago, but not soon enough for me to include it in the new guidebook. Matt named it Karma, and I went to check it out today with a few others. We found a striking line--an overhanging double arete--that is climbed using a bit of trickery, a bit of slapping, and some staying power to pull the lip. The moves are fun and the rock is solid, though a bit rough. Matt's original beta forced the line up the left arete, but a motivated crew today worked out a new sequence that goes at about v6/7, beginning at the obvious horizontal crack and topping out left. It's worth a look if you want something at about that grade--it could be a classic in the making...! Take three or four big pads. You can see the line up on the northeast rim (right side as you walk up canyon), a little beyond the Serengeti boulder.

This is a shot of Ian Cotter-Brown climbing Karma


DaveH said...

Glad to see you're going to the Happies Wills. I remember when you told me you hadn't been there in 3 years :)


Wills Young said...

Ha ha ha ...! Just lack of vision I think!

c said...

so it starts in the crack formed btwn the two boulders? if so, does that mean you can use the bottom boulder for your feet to start? it seems impossible to avoid. otherwise, looks pretty cool!

Wills Young said...

Hi c, Yeah, you use the lower boulder to get going, but unless you're really tall, you quickly move above it.