Brian Hedrick completed Mandala Sit Start (v13) today via the new version, considered by most to be around v13. Tony Lamiche thought his original version was v13 when he did it in 2002, but others later suggested harder. The two versions climb almost like different problems. Anyway here's some video of Brian on the Mandala Sit and Gregor Peirce climbing Form Destroyer (v12):
WEEKEND WARRIORS from Gregor Peirce on Vimeo.
Friday, November 19, 2010
Brian Hedrick, Mandala Sit (v13)
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7 comments:
Hello Bishop...
It looks easier way...we haven't seen the left crimps or what? Chris vas doing the same kind of beta, if my memory is good. Good to see this perfect boulder. Tout shuss..Tony
Hey Tony, Great to hear from you again! I'm sure you looked at the crimps at left, but they appear to lead away from the line and also lead to a very different set-up into the upper moves, making the first half of the climb totally different. Also, for average height climbers, it could be very hard to move into the right undercling. I don't know if Chris tried this. I think that Ethan was the first to seriously attempt the problem this way. He was close to doing it but was injured in a fall from up high. Later Cory French, who is quite tall did this, and also Charlie Barrett. Shorter climbers may find it nearly impossible and stick with the original method.
Grand bisous!
Just wanted to direct you to this post if you hadn't seen it already. Max writes about the Mandala that "Right after Randy topped out, our friend Anson who had been boosted through the start to finish the top moves, broke a sizable chip off the first right handed razor that’s used as the go-to hold for the OG sequence and as a bump/foot hold for the new-school sequence." From the very end of this blog post for further reference http://climbingczar.louderthan11.com/?p=347 .
Not sure what "OG sequence" is supposed to mean. It was DG (Dave Graham), while making the second ascent of The Mandala, who first used the crimp that is now part broken. Chris Sharma on the first ascent started off the ground like anyone else able to reach the starting holds can do if they have any sense of history. Sharma never used that crimp to climb the line, so it makes no difference to the original problem, least of all to where it starts. In fact the first ascent followed much the same sequence many people use today, except that by starting at the ground it avoided the cheat start that is now so popular.
Does anyone happent to know what side of the crimp broke?
The left side--first two fingers. There's still some of the crimp there.
I posted some pics of the piece that broke and describe what happened in more detail at:
http://pebbleharvester.com/
Anson
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