The Young and the Fearless

It seems that the more our sport progresses, the younger our prodigies get. 10 year olds are climbing v13 and redpointing 5.14a while 11 year olds jug up El Capitan and redpoint 5.14c. The pool of strong young climbers continues to grow, making it difficult for up-and-comers to stand out.

But when a 19 year old climbs something like Too Big to Flail, it's hard to ignore his age. Too Big to Flail gets a v10 grade (or 5.13d depending on who you ask), which by todays standards is a pretty standard grade. It just happens to be a v10 that is 50 feet high, with precarious feet and slick, small handholds, some of which are very far apart. This means that a climber must not only be physically strong and technically proficient, but also mentally collected and immensely courageous. Located on the Luminance boulder in the Buttermilks, Too Big to Flail has captivated boulderers across the globe with its aesthetic patina and gargantuan size since its first ascent by renowned soloist Alex Honnold in January 2012. Its second ascent was seen by Lonnie Kauk, a climber who has begun to make quite an impression himself in the last few years within the soloing community. Both Honnold and Kauk acknowledged the intimidating and precarious nature of the line.

19 year old Steven Roth, a mechanical engineering student at UC Berkeley, is a recent addition to the Touchstone Climbing athlete team but is otherwise unsponsored and largely unheard of. Largely unheard of, even though he has made ascents, as well as established some of his own lines, of some of Bishops most stout highballs, such as Ambrosia and Footprints. Steven was born in Richmond, Virginia and went to high school in Florida before coming to the Bay Area to go to college. He made the third ascent of Alex Honnold's 50 foot monster-highball Too Big to Flail (v10) on February 9th, alongside Bay Area native and veteran climber Ethan Pringle, who nabbed the fourth ascent shortly after. I was able to ask Steven a few questions last week via email about his impressive send and what he has his eyes on next.



How long did it take you to project Too Big? Had you scoped out the climb before? Tell us about your send experience.

I spent two days at Too Big to Flail. On the first day of the weekend, Ethan and I headed out to the Luminance boulder to check out the climb. After the top rope was set up, Ethan lowered me as I brushed the holds, cleaned off some of the lichen, and started to unlock some of the harder moves. Thirty minutes later I had more or less done all of the moves and it was Ethan’s turn. He did the moves as well but was unsure about the smeary feet. It was getting dark but I managed to send the problem on top rope before it was too dark to see. After a good night's sleep I headed out early the next morning  to This Side of Paradise to check it out. The wind was insane! I was getting up to the higher moves but the pads were getting blown everywhere, and the gusts were pushing me off the climb. It was chaotic. The howling wind made it really hard to stand, let alone climb. We decided to meet up with Ethan and Georgie and go out to Too Big. It was much calmer but the weather was warm, a little too warm for any serious send burns. Tim Steele met us out there and we hiked a little less than 20 pads up the hill. At first I was a bit anxious to have more than a couple of people watching me climb but everyone was mellow so that was refreshing. Ethan and I were back at working the climb, this time in the heat. Ethan had "greasy sausage fingers" (his words), and my skin was thin, so climbing in the middle of the day was not ideal. But we got the moves really worked out and sent the climb on TR a couple of times using pretty different beta for the lower hard moves and the upper insecure moves. Ethan was able to figure out really long reaches at the very top while I had to use a couple of small holds that Alex and Lonnie used. It was getting cooler; the dark clouds were rolling in and completely covering Mt. Tom. After my third time sending on TR Ethan lowered me, and I said I was ready. We shuffled some pads, I put on my Solutions and within a couple of minutes I was standing on top. While I was climbing the wind was pretty strong and it sprinkled a little but the conditions were perfect. I was super excited and having Ethan's support was great! He seemed uncertain but after one last TR burn and a warm-up jog he cruised it too!

Steven Roth on To Big To Flail. Photo by Anthony Lapomardo.

Lonnie Kauk called it "next level". Was it intimidating to have solo legends like Honnold and Kauk as the first and second ascensionists?

Knowing that Alex and Lonnie, two greats in technical climbing, had done this climb didn't affect me too much since I really love vertical to slightly less than vertical climbing. It feels amazing to be comfortable on tiny feet, trusting the rubber, without a worry of pumping out.

Photo by Jessica Wan. 

How do you know Ethan? What was it like to work such a heady problem with someone else?

Ethan is an athlete for Touchstone Climbing where I work so I met him at the gym where I work with his girlfriend Georgie.  I’ve never worked a highball with someone else before this, but I don’t think it’s any different than working a normal boulder problem with someone.  It was nice to work out the moves with Ethan but for the crux sections we both ended up climbing them quite differently since he’s a bit taller than me.  Compared to being alone for hours like when I was working Ambrosia, climbing with a friend was more rewarding because I got to see his success as well.

Did you come to Bishop with Too Big in mind? Did you train specifically for it?

I didn’t go to Bishop specifically for Too Big, Ethan and I were just excited to go climb some highballs, but Too Big was certainly something we were planning on checking out.  I didn’t train for it; I’d actually say that it served as good training for a project I recently bolted here at a local coastal crag.  As far as the expectations to climb Too Big, I try not to have any expectations when working on a highball because I don’t like the pressure.  But after working it on a rope I was confident that I could do it.

Roth on "Rise"--a Shawn Diamond v9/10 on the southwest arete of the Luminance boulder. "I was able to figure out a wild, over the head drop knee for the crux move. I've never encountered a move like that in Bishop. The movement is brilliant and the rock quality is great." Anthony Lapomardo photo.

You've also completed Footprints and Ambrosia--that makes three ascents of arguably some of the most famous highballs in Bishop right now. What gets you psyched on highballs? Would you say that highballs are your passion in climbing?

I think that highballs are the most aesthetically pleasing lines to climb. They’re kind of like giant sculptures.  Too Big and Ambrosia are by far the most impressive boulder problems I’ve ever seen.  When I’m bouldering, highballs are indeed my passion, but I’ve also been zealous about bolting new routes lately.  Highballs and putting up tall first ascents is awesome but those climbs aren’t accessible to most of the climbing community.  Despite this, I have recently put up a new line on the Grandpa Peabody boulder and a stunning arête highball (The Air Up There, see picture) in the Pollen Grains. I’ve also been passionate about bolting routes since it’s so rewarding to have someone else come up to me and say they loved my route.

Roth on the first ascent of The Air Up There (Pollen Grains). "It's got some small crimps and committing heel hooking high off the ground", he said. Roth gave it a V7/8 grade, although he claims he's "not too good at grading things". Photo by Anthony Lapomardo.

How much time have you spent climbing in Bishop? Do you have other projects in Bishop you'd like to come back to?

I’ve only been to Bishop four times so far, but I plan on spending a lot more time there ticking all of the other highballs.  Ethan got me psyched on The Beautiful And Damned which I’d really like to suss out despite the fact that some pretty key holds just recently broke off, so it might not even be possible anymore. 

Do you have any before-climb rituals or mental preparation you find helpful before trying something tall and potentially dangerous? What sorts of things psyche you out? What do you do to quell the fear? How do you prepare mentally for a big-risk climb like Too Big to Flail?

Well when I’m sussing out the route on a rope I try to work everything out to the point that I’m totally confident I could do it even without any pads.  That way there’s no doubt in my mind, and I treat it like a free solo.  It’s weird; I feel more in control without a rope.  I don’t have any pre-climb rituals or anything.  I definitely feel the pressure when a bunch of people are watching or it’s a big deal to get all the pads together (which is why the solo mentality is convenient).  As soon as I know that I can do it without a rope I don’t think about when I’m going to do it, I just put my shoes on and start climbing, regardless of whether or not anyone else is ready.  That way I don’t psych myself out.

Thanks for taking the time to talk to us, Steven. Best of luck to you, and congratulations on the new sponsorship. Bishop looks forward to seeing you again!

Words and interview by Sasha Turrentine.

For more Anthony Lapomardo photos, see the latest DPM article here: http://bit.ly/1cJGbqk

Whiskey Creek Closed...But Maybe Not For Good?

It’s your first day in the Buttermilks, and the sun is setting. You’d like to keep climbing, but it feels like you’ve been in a slapping match with a cheese grater. You look at your fellow pebble gropers and say, “Whiskey Creek?”

Happy Hour at Whiskey Creek is an integral part of a bouldering trip to Bishop. Making it back into town by 6 o’clock can be a challenge, but if anything will motivate you to stop flailing on your project, it’s a $3 pint of Double Nut Brown.

Whiskey Creek owner Greg Alexander held a meeting on Friday, January 24 to tell his employees, some of whom have worked for him for almost 20 years, that Whiskey Creek was shutting down.

Whiskey Creek wasn’t just a favorite among cantaloupe-forearmed dirtbags—it was a popular destination among locals, tourists and families alike. A popular watering hole in the 80s, founder Sam Walker sold both Mammoth and Bishop locations to Greg Alexander in 1999, and it was Alexander who created the beloved Happy Hour (Half off more than half the menu! Cheap beer!), and the climbers have been flocking ever since.

“Everyone was crying”, said Debbie Nelsen, long-time server at Bishop Whiskey Creek. “We didn’t know [it was happening] until the day it closed. I knew things weren’t going well in Mammoth, but Bishop was a good money-maker. Nobody could believe it.”

So why did such a popular and well-loved restaurant have to close down?

“It really was a David-Goliath kind of story”, explained Alexander.

Seven years ago, Alexander sold the Mammoth location to a development group in hopes that he could free up money to buy another piece of property. Then the real estate crash happened and businesses across Mammoth starting going bankrupt, including the development group Alexander sold the property to. Instead of turning the property back over to the bank, the development group decided to sue him instead in attempt to get him out of the lease.

It turned into a 14-month court battle, which Alexander eventually lost on a technicality. He spent over $150,000 in lawyer fees and they upped his rent, putting it into “catastrophic terms”.  Throw in a stagnant economy and top it with the driest year on record (2013),  and you’ve got “a really crunched situation”, said Alexander plainly.

“If I could have just closed down Mammoth, I would have, but with a C corporation, you can’t just separate or close one down…they’re tied at the hip. It’s like one big company. I had no choice but to close both locations.”

There were over 100 people employed between Mammoth and Bishop, all of whom are now out of work. Tony Bouchereau, another longtime employee of Alexander’s, worked a combined 20 years between the Mammoth and Bishop locations. “I’m really not sure what I’ll do now”, he said.

Bouchereau didn’t hear of the closing until the night before it happened. He was enjoying dinner with his wife and was about to step into the movie theatre when the general manager called. He turned to his wife, in shock, unsure of whether or not they should continue the date or go home.

Waitress Debbie Nelsen got a call that her daughter was in labor a week after the restaurant closed, and bought a ticket immediately to San Diego to be with her.  “Right now I’m trying to do things I wasn’t able to do before”, she explained.

Nelsen described Whiskey Creek as a second family. She also put in almost 20 years at the restaurant and was able to raise two kids solely off her income as a daytime waitress. She is hopeful that this is not the end of Whiskey Creek.

“I’m not done with Whiskey Creek yet”, she laughed.

Alexander is currently trying to reopen Whiskey Creek in Bishop. He said there’s a lot of red tape to get past, but he’s working at opening a new location. So with any luck, it won't be a final farewell to the warm and crowded nights around $3 pints and food we dirtbags can actually afford.

Posted by Sasha Turrentine

Send any questions to sasha.turrentine@gmail.com

Tough link-up by Jacob Padilla

I always thought that Cocktail Sauce(v10) on the Smooth Shrimp boulder, (Buttermilks Main Area, just uphill from Mandala) was a pretty stout problem in itself, but for those who like to up the level a little, how about traversing into it all the way from the left?

Jacob Padilla, a coach and route-setter for City Beach Rock Club, Fremont, wrote to me about this link-up, which he just completed, describing it as, "The ultimate butt-dragger!"

Here he is cruising it ... Nice climbing, Jacob!

Desert Stormer ... v1 ... Really?

So a couple weeks ago a friend here brought to my attention a "v1" in my guidebook that he could find "no holds" on. Page 320 of the 2nd Edition of Bishop Bouldering lists the problem Desert Stormer as problem #16, with the photo-diagram at bottom right on page 321. The problem is on the back side of the Secrets of the Beehive boulder. I listed the grade as "v1?" The question mark is there in the guide with the comment "Reportedly about v1, but it looks harder." My guess is that I found the problem listed in an old topo from Mick Ryan, but didn't climb it before my guide went to print so left the grade nebulous.

Well, curiosity got the better of us, so we arranged some pads under the line to give it a go ... It was a bit dirty at first and took a little cleaning, but after a couple forays and drops onto the pads, several of us climbed the wall, finding it to have some fun technical face climbing. The top remains a bit crusty and caution is needed in manteling over. You'll need three or four pads and a good spot on this, as the landing isn't the best.

We figured it goes around v4/5-ish, so check it out and see what you think! This may not be the original Desert Stormer, or perhaps v1 used to be a lot harder. Take care on the topout.

Lisa Bedient demonstrates some foot skills while climbing Desert Stormer -- Secrets of the Beehive Boulder.

Mirko Caballero Adds Sit to Seven Spanish Angels

A low start had been added to Seven Spanish Angels on the Get Carter Boulder by Charlie Barrett back in 2010, but a true sit remained. This week Mirko Caballero started a little to the right and managed to get it done:

Beautiful Gecko at Ice Caves Reclimbed

Well over a year ago now, some time in November 2011, a good sized hold at the right side of the Beef Cave at the Ice Caves, Sad Boulders, broke away to leave a smooth scar on the overhang where there once was a nice fingertip "jug."

The problem Beautiful Gecko immediately became a good bit harder. Previously, this hold had been the go-to starting point on the mid-level rail that leads left across the roof to form the line of Beautiful Gecko. It had also been useful for Aquatic Hitchhiker up the prow, and slightly more vitally, Windchill, up the face, but these two weren't so drastically affected as the former line, which may well have gone unclimbed since that break. Funny, because a couple other small pieces of the same rail had broken in the past, but this hold was solid. Never looked like it could go anywhere. Monolithic. Like rock, I mean, like a rock.

Anyway, this Wednesday, Ian Cotter-Brown completed the powerful new sequence of tricky cross-overs and tenuous heel- and toe-hook maneuvers across this line. After the awkward, high-tension set-up, a tough stab into the rail of Beefcake with a harrowing swing led to the relative ease of the exit. The line looks likely to hold its v12 grade quite comfortably now, or may even ... break it?



A short while ago Ian also added the link-up of Windchill into the end of Beefcake to produce Subzero, yet another astounding new line from the cave that just keeps on caving ... Oh yeah, and giving. This last also checks in around the v12 range perhaps.

Atari, The Right Way?

Atari, as many will know, is one of the most iconic lines on The Tableland and many people head up the rocky slopes there on the east side of the Happy Boulders Canyon to get to grips with this classic frightener. Requiring hands on each side of a smoothly tapering tower of tuff, Atari provides a unique and tricky challenge.

Recently I heard from Jordan Shackleford about an interesting option on the Atari block--the right side of Atari. As you can see from the picture, it looks pretty spectacular, though I haven't been on it! Jordan climbed the line and wondered if it had been done before. If anyone knows, please post a comment below.

Above: Benoit Bourassa of Montreal on perhaps the second ascent of the right side of Atari. Thanks to Jordan Shackleford for the image

Jordan writes:

There is a long reach up with either hand to a big hold at the broken section of the face in the middle of the route. From there we cranked up with left hand and heel on the arete to gain that really good pocket on the Atari route, with left mono or finger stack in the hole. Then its a high step and a reach for the top.

According to Jordan, the line checks in at a mere v2--not that hard, but the landing is, as he says, "heinous." A fall would be a bad idea from anywhere but the start of the problem! Jordan was with a group of friends who also climbed the line following his lead. "A fun, easy line, but tread with caution," he concludes.

Elliot Faber climbs ZAP in honor of Zack Parke

As mentioned in an earlier post, Elliot Faber recently added The Elevator a line parallel with Transporter Room on Grandpa Peabody at the Buttermilks. In addition to this, he has now completed ZAP, another project he had been eying that branches left out of The Elevator.

 Elliot Faber sets off on The Elevator, a start now shared with his new line, ZAP

For Elliot this was the prize line he most wanted to do, and he named it ZAP in honor of his friend Zachary Amadeus Parke. Zack was a good friend and gifted climber who had previously visited Bishop and inspired many with a ground-up ascent of the adjacent Transporter Room--as noted on this blog. Sadly, a few days later Zack was tragically killed in a hit-and-run accident.

Thanks to Spenser & Vikki of rvproj.com for the photos

In the image above, Elliot is moving up rightward on The Elevator to join Transporter Room. The new line ZAP goes up and left from here passing a large, but shallow hueco that is visible in the photo.

Elliot practiced the crux on a rope before going for the solo. From what he says, there are some dicey moves up high to get stood up securely above the hueco and onto the slab, possibly bumping the overall rating into the v9 range. He mentions some two-finger crystals and hard-to-see footholds. A stack of around ten pads was piled up below, but thankfully not needed!

"I'm so excited that it went," says Elliot of the new line, adding, "there are more out there. I'm hungry for the unseen lines." Let's hope it will be a good season for him and that Zack's memory will inspire many great additions to the area.

Luminance "Send Train" Video

Thanks to Spenser Tang-Smith and Vikki Glinskii at rvproj.com for uploading this sweet video of a send train in action on Luminance, featuring Mark Heal, Alex Johnson, Josh Horsley, Steve Bradshaw, and Eliot Faber. Yep, five people in a row all cruising this glorious-looking highball! Don't have 20+ pads? Well call your friends, gather a posse, and have at it!

The Elevator -- Big New Line on Grandpa Peabody

Elliot Faber has made a bold first ascent of The Elevator, a new line just left of Transporter Room on the Grandpa Peabody at the Buttermilks Main Area. The climb follows a weakness past huecos just left of the blunt arete on the giant boulder's southeast corner and runs up parallel to Transporter Room before joining that line at the slab.

Elliot who had previously climbed Transporter Room, took a liking to the style. He then rappelled the block to inspect other possibilities. He had just two large pads (Mondos) and was spotted by one friend he describes as "white-faced Joseph on the ground" for this white-knuckle super-highball. A knee-bar near the start proved useful to get moving between large huecos on the line, and from a jug in the upper of these, Elliot says, "the fun begins as you start to climb up and right toward Transporter Room."

It's great to see this obvious weakness get climbed. Elliot has suggested the line goes at about the same grade as Transporter Room--around v5.

Alex Johnson, Luminance ground-up flash!

Alex Johnson is super-happy with her one-day visit to Bishop yesterday, after making a ground-up flash of Luminance, a shocking highball on the Luminance Block near the Beehive sector of the Buttermilks. This problem has rightly gained a reputation as one of the finest on the Eastside--perfect rock with perfect slashes for holds. Amazingly, despite the heinous-looking fall zone it has also attracted numerous suitors all gunning for the 45-degree line ground-up.

Alex's prior three-week stint in Yosemite had been hindered by wet conditions, so she dreamed of a special finale to her California trip. Using facebook she posted her intent to check out this amazing line as she drove east for family time in the mid-West. A large posse of climbers and pad bearers met up on a perfect day at the Buttermilks. Though many were talking about trying the problem and studying the features, at the base of this intimidating prospect, nobody seemed to want to be first to pull on their shoes--so Alex has told me! Then, Mark Heal stepped up and moved through the powerful climb with such ease that everybody's attitude changed.

"Mark made it look SO easy," said Alex. "He showed me the beta, told me what footholds he used, and which ones Max [Zolotukhin] had used."

Alex was second to the plate and said she pulled onto the start and into a zone where nothing mattered but gaining the top. With great beta, a positive attitude, and no hesitation she cruised through it first try.

Three other climbers also completed the line during the same session. Also of note, as I heard this but haven't mentioned it, was Isaac Caldiero's ground-up flash of the same line about four weeks ago.

Alex is planning to be back in a couple of months.

Back in Bishop!

I'm back! I'm back in Bishop for some winter bouldering under the sunny skies, amid the stunning scenery of the Sierra's east side!

Snowy mountains ...? Check! Vast vistas ...? Check! Big rocks ...? Double check! I've spent most of the last year out in the eastern US and yes, this blog has lacked updates for all of you beta-hungry boulderers out there! Has anything much happened? Have I missed something? Well, yeah, a LOT!

Thanks to everyone who has written me (email at right) with info and updates. I hope to see you all out there at the boulders in the coming weeks. I know there are a few new additions I have to get out to climb, and I will try. I am in okay health and have been climbing quite a bit lately so hopefully this will continue and I'll enjoy another fantastic season out here, long overdue as a result of various injuries and distractions. I've gotta take care of some household chores, but I can't wait to grab some of those familiar holds again.

I hear you about the broken jugs on some of the heavily trafficked classics like Suspended in Silence (Pollen Grains/Lidija Boulders) and also on Arch Drude (Druid Stones) among other less major breakages such as the right-facing ear on The Mandala. But don't worry, there ARE still holds left. All this means is your favorite bouldering area just got cleaner, safer, and better! Be careful though and never take anything for granted. Ha ha ha  ...!

Bishop is a-buzz as usual: Dan Beall, after establishing the area's hardest problem since Lucid Dreaming nearly a year ago (Misdirection --I'll get to that in a future post), has been climbing technical double-digit lines in his hiking shoes between sessions on new projects, while climbers continue going ground up en masse on previously unimaginable objectives! Young Alex Johnson (yeah, the girl not the guy version) has just (yesterday) joined the list of lunatics by making a ground-up flash of Luminance. Highballing has been the name of the game at the Buttermilks, as ever: New lines, climbers new to me, and much to talk about, so I'll sign off and return shortly with some updates and more about the last year's, as well as the last week's developments! Talk soon.

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Dan Mills' Spring Action

Okay, it’s time to catch up on some of the Spring action that took place here in Bishop. I was recently chatting to So Cal's Dan Mills about some first ascents he added to the area. Dan, who was just 15 when he climbed the Mandala, a bit over ten years ago, has evolved into a Bishop connoisseur with few, if any, equals.

Over the past years Dan has systematically worked his way through the hardest boulder problems in the guidebook, not just picking his favorites, but literally climbing everything he could--one-star, two-star, three-star lines, the none-stared and the new, seeking out everything from the obvious to the obscure. Last year he completed all the hard lines at the Sad Boulders (everything v7 or harder) including additions of his own to fill some gaps, and when he read of a couple new lines/link-ups in the Beef Cave, he returned this spring to do those too.

This year he has been focusing more on the Monzonite of the Buttermilks and Druid Stones. Among the lines he has suggested as new this spring are:

Mini Me, v9 (sit start), on Mini Boulder, Buttermilks Main Area, listed as a project in Bishop Bouldering 2nd edition, page 288, route #2.

The Bush, v9 (sit start), on back of the Hueco Wall Boulder, Dale’s Camp, starting with both hands on an obvious pinch. Punch up and right, then leap to the lip. This line is not in the guide, but the Hueco Wall can be found on page 362 of Bishop Bouldering 2nd edition. See video below for a better understanding of this.

Mister Fister, v10+ (sit start), Druid Stones. Start at Hook Line and Sinker. Go right to match hands on a wide edge, then make big hard pull up and right to join the fingery sharp crimps of Red Light District.

Frosted Flakes, v8 (sit start), Cave Boulder, Buttermilks Main Area, makes use of some nice patina by branching out of an established classic. Begin as for Cave Route, (Bishop Bouldering 2nd edition, page 259), then immediately before the crux move of that problem head up and right to meet the Dyno Problem.

General Mills (v9, sit start) is another strained but fun line using some nice patina crimps in the same location, but this time moving left from the Cave Route. Again, climb the Cave route to immediately before the crux. Now move left past a sweet glassy crimp and along the lip leftward before pulling up into a right-facing flake.

While the latter two lines are somewhat forced (and possibly not new) Dan insists they are well worth doing and recording. Along with these lines, Dan made some impressive repeats including a likely second ascent of The Chunnel (v10/11), Alex Honnold’s addition to the Beef Cave at the Ice Caves (Sad Boulders, BB 2nd Ed, p 205). This line begins as for Aquatic Hitchhiker but heads up and out the wall above to a nervy finish on Light at the End of the Tunnel.

Of course it is hard to explain where lines go, so to get an idea of these, check out Dan's video:

Luminance Video

Bishop highballing is all about big lines, a bunch of pads and spotters, and the spirit of bouldering taken to an extreme. Here's Joe Maier on the amazing Luminance, recently done ground up by himself, by Jake Lovotny (see post below) and by a super-strong Japanese climber named Leo(?)! [Edit: The Japanese climber is Ryohei Hagiwara aka "Ryo." See second comment below.]

Don't try this at home:


Luminance, Bishop CA from Joe Maier on Vimeo.

Jake Novotny, Luminance: Ground Up Ascent

I recently heard from Lake Tahoe climber Jake Novotny of his ground up ascent of Luminance (v10?) the spectacular overhanging highball on the Luminance Boulder. Unsurprisingly Jake says, "It was the scariest line I've had the pleasure to climb in the 'Milks." But, he adds, "I've never been able to climb v10 so quickly."

Jake wonders if the fear-factor plays into the impression of difficulty on the line. No doubt fear will play its role, as the chaotic uneven fall-zone is simply terrible on this, and it would be inviting disaster not to want to overpower the moves. Could the fear subconsciously also force an extra effort?

Who knows? But others have wondered the same, and likely the problem lies nearer to the v9 mark. Most importantly says Jake, it has, "some of the best movement on some of the finest rock in the world," and he gives Shawn Diamond great credit for making the first ascent.

Jake had three large pads, including one big one down in the trough far below, and two spotters for his ascent, which is now believed to be the fourth(!) ground up after Dan Beall's back in October 2009--See comments below.

It is pretty amazing that so many are tackling this line without prior inspection on a rope. Impressive stuff by all!

Possible New v10 on Cave Boulder, Buttermilks

Itai Axelrad wrote to me about a line he climbed on the Cave Boulder at the Buttermilks. It goes up the wall that is to the left of Lactose Intolerant and The Buttermilker and to the right of the v3 "Dyno Problem" (guidebook 2nd ed page 259). This is a small sheer overhanging wall with some nice patina and I think a few people have looked at it to sport a line. However, I have not climbed it and I don't know if anyone else has climbed it, so Itai has tentatively dubbed the line, Crimps of Wrath and thinks it might be around v10.

He began the climb with his left hand on a thin in-cut horizontal crimp, and a similar but vertical crimp for the right, and climbed directly up beginning with a hard move to a left-hand gaston. This is a pic of Itai with the holds he used indicated. In the photo he has just stuck the first (and hardest) move:

Itai writes: "I thought about various different starts for the climb, but found them slightly contrived and rather difficult. The start that I did seems to be the most natural and direct."

Please comment if you try (or have tried) the line! Thanks!

Jill Church Waters, Fight Club

Jill Church Waters, who moved to Bishop last year with her husband and baby daughter, recently climbed Fight Club  (highball v10?) on the Saigon Boulder at the Buttermilks. This problem, first done by Randy Puro around 11 years ago, soon gained a reputation for being near-impossible after a lack of repeats and the break of a small edge used on the first ascent. With the boost of v11 in the guidebook, the line saw more interest, but few if any repeats per season.

With a vague beginning--it was originally done as a jump-start to slopers--Fight Club's start is somewhat indistinct (impossible if you are too short to leap to those holds). But whether you begin with both hands on, or one hand, or none at all, you still have to pull the crux mantel to get onto this undercut boulder. How hard is this mantel? With conditions being critical on the problem and because the rock sits in the sun all day, it normally feels impossible! Under better conditions, it may not be too bad ... Jill suggested that it felt closer to a v9 for her, after checking it off on a super-cold day, but go try it... very few succeed! Make it through that techy mantel and you have the highball slab to negotiate. Getting to the top is quite an adventure. A proud ascent by Jill, for sure!

Jill has been getting after it recently with ascents of Beefy Gecko (v11), and Bubba Gump (v10), to name a couple, but also declared her ascent of Lydia's Mouth (a reachy v3 at Pollen Grains) one of her hardest to date!

Climbers' Coffee with the BLM

I received a note from Becky Hutto at the Bishop office of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) telling me about the free coffee mornings the BLM are providing for anyone who wants to join them at the Pleasant Valley Climbers' campground (a.k.a. The Pit campground).

Please drop in starting around 8:30am for a fee wake-up brew (of coffee!) and take the opportunity to pose any questions or concerns you have about the management of the Happy and Sad Boulders (which the BLM are responsible for).

The BLM have been great at working climbers for the preservation and enjoyment of these areas for all and I urge everyone to help keep the areas as clean and unspoiled as possible. Please also take the chance to say hi.

Normally the BLM does these coffee mornings once a month, but during spring break these are EVERY week, please click the image to see the dates, thanks!

Saigon Superdirect ground-up by Dan Fong

Matt Mersel wrote to me with a link to a vid of 19-year-old UCLA student Daniel Fong (originally of the Bay Area) climbing Saigon Superdirect in ground-up style. Matt says, "We were out a few weekends ago and Daniel gave it a few burns and took some steep drops, but he got it first go last weekend. Never used a rope!"

As far as I know, the FA of this line was done ground up by George Ullrich in 2008, after half-hearted efforts by all the top names in the game, but it still rarely gets climbed and certainly sees few serious attempts in this on-sight style. Though it is above a flat landing, it's a very bold line, differing from the regular "direct" by gaining the good pinch with the right hand and slapping over the lip to a sloper where the regular direct goes right. See also a pic of Charlie Barrett on this. Nice work Dan!

Above: Daniel Fong holding the sloper after the big move on Saigon Superdirect (v9/10). Image by Edward Cheung.

Here's a vid Matt shot with a GoPro: