Here's a shot of Charlie Barrett making a repeat of Saigon Superdirect at the Buttermilks today. Possible second ascent? Not sure. A very impressive ascent anyway, first try after a quick inspection on a rope. The Superdirect goes straight over from the high pinch to a sloper for the left hand, then a move up right to a another rounded but better hold. These moves are seriously off the deck, demanding a lot of commitment, and are followed by a frightening finish over the sloping topout--higher than it looks in this shot, trust me. Got to be one of the proudest highballs at the 'Milks.
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