Saturday, December 11, 2010

Charlie Barrett, Saigon Superdirect (v10?)

Here's a shot of Charlie Barrett making a repeat of Saigon Superdirect at the Buttermilks today. Possible second ascent? Not sure. A very impressive ascent anyway, first try after a quick inspection on a rope. The Superdirect goes straight over from the high pinch to a sloper for the left hand, then a move up right to a another rounded but better hold. These moves are seriously off the deck, demanding a lot of commitment, and are followed by a frightening finish over the sloping topout--higher than it looks in this shot, trust me. Got to be one of the proudest highballs at the 'Milks.

5 comments:

Becky said...

It was impressive to watch! He made it look almost effortless. Great job Charlie!

Dan Beall said...

This climb looks so unlikely, props to Charlie and whoever got the first.

Wills Young said...

Dan, It's a really amazing line, and lots of people have taken a look and played on it, but as far as I know right now the FA was around June/July 2008 by George Ulrich.

Charlie said...

That guy Charlie is badass.

Wills Young said...

To Charlie, whoever you are: Yeah for sure! That guy Charlie can float most of the problems out there! But I still warm up on his project and I don't think he's ever done a real v10 in the gym. Ha ha ha ...