Saturday, December 11, 2010
Charlie Barrett, Saigon Superdirect (v10?)
Here's a shot of Charlie Barrett making a repeat of Saigon Superdirect at the Buttermilks today. Possible second ascent? Not sure. A very impressive ascent anyway, first try after a quick inspection on a rope. The Superdirect goes straight over from the high pinch to a sloper for the left hand, then a move up right to a another rounded but better hold. These moves are seriously off the deck, demanding a lot of commitment, and are followed by a frightening finish over the sloping topout--higher than it looks in this shot, trust me. Got to be one of the proudest highballs at the 'Milks.
Posted by Wills Young at 10:05 PM
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5 comments:
It was impressive to watch! He made it look almost effortless. Great job Charlie!
This climb looks so unlikely, props to Charlie and whoever got the first.
Dan, It's a really amazing line, and lots of people have taken a look and played on it, but as far as I know right now the FA was around June/July 2008 by George Ulrich.
That guy Charlie is badass.
To Charlie, whoever you are: Yeah for sure! That guy Charlie can float most of the problems out there! But I still warm up on his project and I don't think he's ever done a real v10 in the gym. Ha ha ha ...
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