Sunday, February 14, 2010

Dan Beall Update

Well, I've been focusing on other things than writing this blog, but quite a lot of action has taken place here in Bishop that I need to catch up on. There have been yet more new lines reported to me and some impressive sends, plus a couple of ascents slipping under the radar that went unreported. In the latter category were Dan Beall's ascents of The Swarm (v14), Direction (v13), The Mandala (v12), and the rarely repeated Fight Club (v11), all of which he added to his impressive tick list here during a spell of visits from just after Thanksgiving to early January. He also climbed the world's hardest v9 (after breakages) in America's Fit Homeless (v9? Has anyone else climbed this lately?).

8 comments:

Dave said...

When did America's Fit Homeless break?

Wills Young said...

This problem was first done back in the 1990s. It has had small breakages a couple of times since, though not that recently. It still gets ascents and is probably v9-ish. Some including Dan and me find it pretty hard.

Dave said...

I remember in 2007 when I did it that I was convinced the reason I had success was because of the specific shoe I was wearing. It had a bit of a larger heel and the extra room in the shoe under the heel made the rubber buckle when I rolled the heel hook. Right heel hook I remember, on some crappy crimp, near the beginning of the problem. I remember thinking it was a tough one.

Anonymous said...

I am unsure of the validity of his Swarm ascent, I would love to hear from someone that was there. From what I know he did it alone? seems odd?

Jonathan Deguzman said...

Having watched him hike Direction and Mandala and knowing him personally, I find nothing questionable within his ability as a climber and more importantly anything questionable in his character as a person to have any doubt that he sent The Swarm. If we find time to go back and film a repeat this season I would love to have you join us. Then that way you can ANONYMOUSLY validate the send, and if not for that, at least provide a helping hand as a grip.

DB said...

I was alone, it is odd. I was dealing with some things and wanted to be by myself. I hope that my word and the confidence of my friends is enough for you, if not, there isn't much more that I can offer.

Marcus said...

I met Dan while watching him work the mandala sit. After watching him stick the crux in a couple tries, I don't doubt that he did the Swarm one bit haha. Even more importantly, he was just a really nice guy and didn't seem like the proud, show-offy type of climber that would care to lie about an ascent. Nice work man.

Wills Young said...

Thanks Marcus. But actually I don't think there is anyone, and I don't know of anyone, who has ever seriously questioned Dan's ascents.