It was great to see Chris Webb-Parson's smiling face in Bishop again. Around this time last year, just before arriving in California, he had been climbing at Hueco (Texas) when he dislocated his shoulder and had to return to his home in Australia to get surgery and recover. A year has gone by and he is back again, not as strong (yet) as he was before, but it seems like he's not wasting time trying to regain his former level.
Chris has succeeded on several problems in the v11 and v12 range here. At the Happy Boulders he did Kill On Sight (v12, the new sit-start on the arete right of Slow Dance) and Bubba Butt Buster (v11). At the Buttermilks, he did The Mystery (v11?) utilizing a better sequence at the end, and later adding the traverse into this, The Oracle (v12/13). He also did a high-start to The Buttermilker (from the underclings) and The Mandala. Hopefully Chris will bounce back to full strength and we'll have more to report soon!
As an aside, it is worth pointing out again, that Chris Sharma's problem The Mandala, as Sharma has mentioned to me himself recently, starts with the left hand on the low crimp, just his other landmark ascent The Buttermilker begins from the sit.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Chris Webb-Parsons in Bishop
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3 comments:
i think you need to have a powerpoint presentation with photos and diagrams for the correct starting position on The Mandala, along with video. :)
Hey Tim, There was of course the original "Dosage" video showing Sharma doing the FA, but that was long ago.
hehe yes, it was a bit tongue-in-cheek here. there are no youtube footage of sharma doing mandala, but there are a few other examples.
DG's second ascent.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7F8UoThdS0 (which uses the lower crimp)
Lisa Rand's ascent
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fc5JuQIcJOE
(same start)
Webb Parsons' ascent
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLqVxJlRCLg
(starts on the higher sidepull and crimp)
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