Monday, April 27, 2009

Black Stuff Low Start by Jarod Arnsten

Jarod on the new line (both pics)

Just heard from Jarod Arnsten that he did a super-fun addition to the Sads, by climbing The Black Stuff from a low start. "I noticed that the cavern had some sweet start holds at the very bottom," says Jarod. The climb starts down in the "hole" with a good left hand crimp and a good right hand crimp plus a big dish hole for the left foot. It climbs the face using long lock offs to what Jarod describes as "a sweet crimp with a good thumb catch," and then uses, "some cool trickery to get into the start to Blackstuff." Jarod thinks the line might go at around the v6/7 range. Please check it out and report back!

Thanks to Jarod for both the images.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Rock Creek mid-week

Ian Cotter-Brown, Dude v9/10

Conditions were pretty good at Rock Creek mid-week, despite Bishop heat. Good enough for a session on the Boy Named Sue Boulder where pointless traverse link-ups are the name of the game ... Last year I linked The Groove into Boy Named Sue, and Charlie Barrett linked Boy Named Sue into The Groove and later Blood Brothers. Life Ain't Easy has since been linked into The Groove, and now the race is on to link Life Ain't Easy into Blood Brothers! Ian Cotter-Brown, shown here sticking Dude (v9/10?), fell on almost the last move of the latter link up with his foot up on the slab. Jeff Sillcox was also close.

Dude went down easily to Ian, who had always thought the problem was near-impossible, but with the added friction of the late evening temps, that all changed and he quickly stuck the move twice out of two! He used a right-foot-only method for the jump, left foot off. Nice. Tony Lamiche's eliminate dyno, to the right (beginning on The Fluke), remains unrepeated, but surely not for long ...

UPDATE: Ian completed the traverse link on Saturday 25th. Life Ain't Easy into Blood Brothers = Blood Sport ... (v11?)

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Jesse Bonin in the Aquarium

I heard from Jesse Bonin that last Saturday he climbed Aquarium (v11/12?) which begins with Aquatic Hitchhiker and tops out the boulder by climbing left from the "jug" backward through the Beefy Gecko traverse to join Beefcake all the way to its end. As far as I know, this is the first time the boulder has been climbed from start to summit without using the back wall, and it's almost certainly the hardest line done at the Sads.

"A whole lot of squeezing and heel-hooking," says Jesse. Asked about the obvious possibility of linking that same start (Aquatic Hitchhiker) into a topout through the gap directly above (Light At the End of the Tunnel, v8-ish), Jesse feels this would be the "real gem link-up." But he added, "I did not have nearly enough pads to even try that stand start. Kinda freaky looking last move. Everything would have to be coated in pads."

It is also worth noting that the start to this line (same as Aquatic Hitchhiker) is not the LOWEST possible starting point, and so you could add a couple more very hard moves there: "It looks totally doable," Jesse commented.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Cory French, Spectre v13

Quick note to say congrats to Cory French for his ascent of Spectre (v13) on Monday 13th.

Nice work Cory. I believe Cory figured out the problem over three or four days and used a roll-through move at the start allowing easier placement of the key right toe, before matching the small crimps just before the crux. He moved right above the lip before topping out up the high slab.