Thursday, May 26, 2011

Transporter Room Another Repeat -- from Zack Parke

Just received this note from an inspired Zack Parke of Santa Cruz. Read on as he explains.

"About a month ago I came across this video on Black Diamonds' website of Kevin Jorgeson in the Buttermilks. In it, among other sweet lines, Kevin does what could be only the second ever ascent of the Transporter Room on the Grandpa Peabody boulder.
After watching that video I got pretty psyched about doing this climb, now that I know where it goes and some of the beta. I'd planned a trip out to the Buttermilks for last week, and made it a point to check out Transporter Room. On Thursday after I warmed up and surprised myself by wrapping up a couple of previously frustrating projects, I convinced my friends to bring pads down and check out the line. It looked good so I went for it, and got up on the first go.
The bottom was pretty straightforward, and includes the physical crux, a left hand cross. The top was a little weird as I didn't quite know exactly where on the slab to climb, so I kind of mini epic-ed for 15 minutes deciding which holds to use. Not too hard but definitely the mental crux for me.
Respect to Kevin for reviving this old line. Without his video I wouldn't even have been thinking about the climb.
Hopefully it will get more traffic!
Wish I was still there; everything's turning a beautiful green!
Zack Parke"
This ascent is all the more impressive as Zack (25) has been climbing only about four years, mostly in Yosemite, but has been mixing things up with a fair amount of bouldering. Zack climbed the line without any prior inspection or TR, but after looking at the video from Kevin Jorgeson's ascent, which turned out not to be the second after all (see comments below). As well as working as a bike messenger, Zack makes custom sewn gear for climbers including chalk bags, pads, packs and wall gear. UPDATE: Please see the very sad news in comment #4. Here are a few images from Zack's ascent:

Zack Parke, Transporter Room. Photo: Kevin Smith

Zack Parke, Transporter Room. Photo: Kevin Smith

Zack Parke, Transporter Room. Photo: Kristel Dorighi

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Isaac Caldiero completes Joe's project!

Longtime friend of Bishop Bouldering, Isaac Caldiero, has completed his guidebook to Joe's Valley, Utah. He's done an awesome job of the guide, updating all the known info, and finally getting the word out on a slew of development there from the last few years. More info at the Joe's Valley Guidebook website.

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Fingerprints FA by Andrew Stevens

It's great to see that even though I might not be climbing much right now, life still goes on as usual out at the Buttermilks!

In early April, local Bishop RN and ER manager Andrew Stevens even added a sweet new line to "The North Boulder," which might better be described as the "East Side Story Boulder," after the proud highball by that name on its south face (see page 236 in the guide 2nd ed). Andrew's likely first ascent climbs a prow-like line on the boulder's northwest corner.

Buttermilks FA, Fingerprints from Andrew Stevens on Vimeo.

As I've been out of action recently, I haven't been able to check out the line yet, though I do know the boulder pretty well and the patina there is second to none -- it is perfect. I remember climbing on the slab and the undercut wall, but don't think I did the problem Andrew found here. Obviously some degree of vision is needed! This problem is in the v8 range, he says and he highly recommends it.

Walk out from the Birthday Boulder parking past the Fly Boy Boulder to find this. The problem will stay in the shade for half the day, but watch out for snakes as it's getting kinda warm out there. Should have posted this earlier, sorry!