Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Desert Stormer ... v1 ... Really?

So a couple weeks ago a friend here brought to my attention a "v1" in my guidebook that he could find "no holds" on. Page 320 of the 2nd Edition of Bishop Bouldering lists the problem Desert Stormer as problem #16, with the photo-diagram at bottom right on page 321. The problem is on the back side of the Secrets of the Beehive boulder. I listed the grade as "v1?" The question mark is there in the guide with the comment "Reportedly about v1, but it looks harder." My guess is that I found the problem listed in an old topo from Mick Ryan, but didn't climb it before my guide went to print so left the grade nebulous.

Well, curiosity got the better of us, so we arranged some pads under the line to give it a go ... It was a bit dirty at first and took a little cleaning, but after a couple forays and drops onto the pads, several of us climbed the wall, finding it to have some fun technical face climbing. The top remains a bit crusty and caution is needed in manteling over. You'll need three or four pads and a good spot on this, as the landing isn't the best.

We figured it goes around v4/5-ish, so check it out and see what you think! This may not be the original Desert Stormer, or perhaps v1 used to be a lot harder. Take care on the topout.

Lisa Bedient demonstrates some foot skills while climbing Desert Stormer -- Secrets of the Beehive Boulder.