Friday, April 25, 2008

The KD Factor, Hive Boulder (Pollen Grains)

Heard from Kevin Daniels that he has climbed another tall and beautiful line, this time on the Hive Boulder at the Pollen Grains. Sounds amazing. From what I understand, it starts down and right from where Timothy Leary Presents runs (#6 page 291). You sit start matched in a nice hole; you dyno up left and move left and up through nice huecos to a big black xenolith. Fom there you head up left on nice slopers to intersect Timothy Leary Presents near the top. The KD Factor sounds like a three-star highball, and is thought to be around the v3 range (5.11-ish), but knowing Kevin, it could be harder.

Dale's West Projects Climbed ...

Went out for an evening session at Dale's West on Thursday and repeated The Green Hornet finding it about v3/4 and just as nerve-wracking as the first time I did it many years ago -- super-super classic though, and an absolute MUST-do line. Take big pads. Also climbed the line to the right that Jeff Sillcox told me he and Andrew Stevens had done recently, which is listed as Unknown in the guide (page 314). See also Jeff's Eastside Bouldering Blog. That one is also a little spicy. Seems about v4/5, with some hard pulls on small crimps and very technical as with Green Hornet. Failed miserably on Project #5, page 314. Someone can do it though, no doubt, but definitely in the v11 or harder range, I'd guess -- with long arms very useful.

Also went down to the Zen Flute Boulder and climbed a few things including the Project #17 listed on page 315, which wasn't too hard, maybe around v6/7 with a sit that went at a grade or so harder. Possibly been done before but likely not. Checked off Unknown/Project #14 listed on page 314, which was hard going as the rock stayed warm even after the sun dropped behind the nearby ridge, and the moves required some skin. Beginning with both hands in the lower crack/sidepull, the sequence involved hard moves to gain and then pull up on a limpet-like protrusion (v9/10? Maybe easier in good conditions!). I had to meat-wrap the limpet, which was one of the weirdest handholds I've ever used on a boulder problem. It is fun though, for sure, and maybe someone can find a way to do it without the limpet move?

Friday, April 18, 2008

New Line on Fly Boy Boulder

Got this from Garrett Gregor:

"I put up a new climb - I think? his weekend to the right of flyboy... same face as fly boy. which starts left hand low and right hand on a slopey crimp instead of crawling up the slab to the jugs. It busts right and has a comitting move over the slab... maybe v7/8ish? Let me know what you think..."

Here's a photo: