Friday, April 25, 2008

Dale's West Projects Climbed ...

Went out for an evening session at Dale's West on Thursday and repeated The Green Hornet finding it about v3/4 and just as nerve-wracking as the first time I did it many years ago -- super-super classic though, and an absolute MUST-do line. Take big pads. Also climbed the line to the right that Jeff Sillcox told me he and Andrew Stevens had done recently, which is listed as Unknown in the guide (page 314). See also Jeff's Eastside Bouldering Blog. That one is also a little spicy. Seems about v4/5, with some hard pulls on small crimps and very technical as with Green Hornet. Failed miserably on Project #5, page 314. Someone can do it though, no doubt, but definitely in the v11 or harder range, I'd guess -- with long arms very useful.

Also went down to the Zen Flute Boulder and climbed a few things including the Project #17 listed on page 315, which wasn't too hard, maybe around v6/7 with a sit that went at a grade or so harder. Possibly been done before but likely not. Checked off Unknown/Project #14 listed on page 314, which was hard going as the rock stayed warm even after the sun dropped behind the nearby ridge, and the moves required some skin. Beginning with both hands in the lower crack/sidepull, the sequence involved hard moves to gain and then pull up on a limpet-like protrusion (v9/10? Maybe easier in good conditions!). I had to meat-wrap the limpet, which was one of the weirdest handholds I've ever used on a boulder problem. It is fun though, for sure, and maybe someone can find a way to do it without the limpet move?

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