Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Jeff Sillcox adds yet more options to Grandma Peabody

Saturday 16th Jeff Sillcox added yet another slightly strained but excellent line to Grandma Peabody's beautiful patina'd northwest wall, naming it Magnetic North. The line moves diagonally up rightward from the jug that is at the end of Center Direct (or at least the end of the hard part) across perfect rock to good holds at the lip. Use a high left heel hook and a hold far out right (a lone hold in the blank section of rock) to pull through to the lip with the left hand. Move further right to right-facing sidepull and the good rail above. Jeff turned the lip and moved left to gain the easy line up the slab. The line is a beautiful piece of climbing and around v8 or v9.

See pics in a later post.

1 comment:

Wills Young said...

Repeated the problem today, just before dark with Jeff spotting and providing beta. SUPER good climbing with a hard crux way off the deck. About v8, maybe harder. Crimpy and committing with engaging movement and cool holds. Needs a direct finish up the slab ...

Beautiful line everyone should do or aspire to! Great find Jeff!