Saturday, April 14, 2012

Possible New v10 on Cave Boulder, Buttermilks

Itai Axelrad wrote to me about a line he climbed on the Cave Boulder at the Buttermilks. It goes up the wall that is to the left of Lactose Intolerant and The Buttermilker and to the right of the v3 "Dyno Problem" (guidebook 2nd ed page 259). This is a small sheer overhanging wall with some nice patina and I think a few people have looked at it to sport a line. However, I have not climbed it and I don't know if anyone else has climbed it, so Itai has tentatively dubbed the line, Crimps of Wrath and thinks it might be around v10.

He began the climb with his left hand on a thin in-cut horizontal crimp, and a similar but vertical crimp for the right, and climbed directly up beginning with a hard move to a left-hand gaston. This is a pic of Itai with the holds he used indicated. In the photo he has just stuck the first (and hardest) move:

Itai writes: "I thought about various different starts for the climb, but found them slightly contrived and rather difficult. The start that I did seems to be the most natural and direct."
Please comment if you try (or have tried) the line! Thanks!


Anonymous said...

thats super rad!! wish i would have known about it while i was down there... Congrats on the FA!

Guillaume said...

I did repeated it on the next day of his ascent. I'm not so sure about the grade. But anyway who cares! It is a stunning line, but I wish it would have more space between problems. Last thing, it would be very easy for people to do it as a kinf of jump start, since there is a big rock on the left side that you use to set the hands, just be carefull with that. I'm pretty sure he did it statically.
Great climb.

Alex Biale said...

I was there when Itai did the FA and he pulled on and placed his feet before moving statically. Well done Itai!!


I just did it today. I started on the lower right hand crimp and dynoed past the undercling to left gaston. Felt hard that way. Excellent climb....... Dan mills